Le Roi Fou

A classic bijou restaurant des artistes at the Broughton end of Edinburgh New Town for bons vivants.

Edinburgh - Restaurant des Artistes - Jérôme Henry

http://www.leroifou.com

Edinburgh - Restaurant des Artistes - Jérôme Henry

'Feels and tastes like a treat': Joanna Blythman reviews Le Roi Fou ...

No way Mosimann is going to let anything other than polished, professional food to go out under his name, but Edinburgh isn’t Belgravia, and when I saw that Swiss Jérôme Henry had opened his first restaurant, Le Roi Fou, in Edinburgh, I did wonder whether we’d be getting another conservative fine dining option aimed at money men.

But it’s the spiced fish soup that really electrifies me: brick red, with the thick, grainy texture you get from painstakingly sieved fish bones and shells, a veritable French soupe de poisons, the very essence of seafood underpinned by notes of fennel, cayenne, bay, thyme, saffron, and even a hint of orange rind.

Warm, sappy white asparagus from the Wye Valley partnered with shavings of salty-sweet Serrano ham make a starter that’s more about wise combination than dogged effort, yet even this is graced by master touches: a glistening, refreshing dressing that might just have a hint of orange juice in it; a skinned cherry tomato disgorging sharp juices to further moisten the plate.

A stack of fat, fresh garden peas, an asparagus spear, and new season’s carrots – yellow, orange, and purple – look and taste lovely.

Mango, blackberry, and lemon sorbets, made on the premises, taste of the said fruits, rather than sugar; slivers of perfectly ripe mango, orange segments, and passion fruit seeds are all the garnish they need.

Le Roi Fou, Edinburgh, restaurant review - Scotsman Food and Drink

You don't have to be arty to appreciate the beautiful food at Le Roi Fou, says Gaby Soutar Is a Forth restaurant new Roi on Le Street Fou.

According to the press release, this art movement is just one of the references employed by creative director Isolde Nash and chef Jérôme Henry, formerly of Anton Mosimann’s Private Dining Club and Les Trois Garçons, when creating their Edinburgh restaurant, Le Roi Fou (the Crazy King).

Nice pepper grinders, smart walnut chairs, linen clad tables, a pretty tiled bar, a golden velvet curtain… Food-wise and there’s a Prix Fixe menu (two courses, £17.50, or three for £21.50), a swanky sounding weekend brunch, as well as a rather pricey à la carte that champions modern European food, seasonal produce and, on our visit, featured a decent vegetarian selection of dishes.

First of all, I was presented with the wrong dish – just the salad, no aubergine – which I sent back while my other half tucked into a pair of the most beautiful Isle of Skye scallops (£14.50) I’ve seen.

After my other half had licked the plate, my proper starter arrived, with a fridge cold squashed aubergine on top of it, no walnuts.

Le Roi Fou, Edinburgh — a chef's vision realised

Restaurant review: Le Roi Fou, Edinburgh | The Independent

Already familiar with the location, once my husband’s favourite burger joint, this little restaurant is tucked just off the bustling Broughton Street in the heart of Edinburgh's New Town.

Its name translates as “the crazy king” French and it’s no surprise it was crowned best new restaurant at the Scottish Food Awards in May.

The main dining space at the back of the restaurant is a combination of classic and contemporary with light wood, red velvet seating dark grey-green chalk painted walls – white tablecloths, fine china and crystal.

To go with the Spanish wine, husband opts for cured Iberico pork loin and warm white English asparagus – he enjoyed it but it was quite punchy at £12.50 and I think having had a forkful of mine, there was some food envy going on.

The marquise is as promised: super chocolate-y and delivered with a superb combination of flavour and texture – gooey ganache, soft warm brownie, crumbly chocolate soil and vanilla ice cream.

Le Roi Fou, Edinburgh: restaurant review - olive magazine

Le Roi Fou opened its doors in Edinburgh’s New Town in March 2017.

Swiss-French chef Jerome Henry, previously of Mosimann’s London, has cooked in some of the best restaurants in the UK and has now set down his roots in Edinburgh where he sources the best Scottish produce available.

With five years as head chef at Les Trois Garçons in Shoreditch, catering for its celebrity clientele, followed by seven years working with Anton Mosimann in London’s Belgravia, where Jerome created menus for royalty, heads of state, artists, musicians and pop stars, his French roots and culinary experience are a great addition to Edinburgh’s restaurant scene.

The restaurant is less than two miles from the sea so expect to see appearances from Isle of Skye scallops, native oysters, spiced fish soup and grilled Scottish monkfish on the menu.

Le Roi Fou is informal fine dining in a part of town that lacks anything similar to the classic cooking and gastronomic expertise that Jerome delivers.